Materials testing #17659/17801
Materials test sample #17659
The cost of textile failure accounts for more than 5 billion dollars in losses each year (2003). Accordingly, you need to process your textiles regardless of fiber labeling to ensure quality performance. Shown is a processed denim sample, the finished dimensions are 18.5" x 19.25".
The purpose the testing was to ensure the trim (bungee cord) weathered the processing well. The form was designed by the company for their typical use which appears to be gauging the quality of different types of washes that can be applied to denim. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that the weave itself was considered.
In this photo,the grain torquing is evident and once constructed, the side seams of the pant legs will twist but no mention of the fabric defect is made on the form. One could hope a torque test had been done previously but if it had been, the fabric (and this sample) wouldn't be in evidence. The best way to test for torquing is to sew the sample into a tube before it's processed. No fewer than 5 people were involved in this test sample but everybody missed this detail. Similarly, the starting dimensions of the piece (pre-processing) does not appear but the lack of that information could mean the company has a conventional size they always cut; the size being a matter of in-house standardization. I'd recommend that DEs cut a piece 20"x20" for fabric testing.
Materials Test Sample #17801
This sample measures 19.25" x 17.75". This form is a bit different as it was generated during the product development phase.
The purpose was to test whether the button and ribbon trim will withstand the rigors of stonewashing and in this case, it appears that neither will be suitable. While this isn't good news, it's better to know before one has cut 10,000 units, sewed them and then processed them. This sample doesn't appear to be torqued but this doesn't mean the piece goods pass inspection. I'd be concerned about the seam failure shown here.
Most of the time, all you have to do to test your textiles is to wash and dry them. If the final product will be labeled "dry clean only", then you need to dry clean a sample that has whatever buttons and trim you plan to use, attached to the piece. If your buttons melt into the piece goods during dry cleaning, don't you think it's better to know that before you cut/sew your product line? One can only hope so.
The cost of textile failure accounts for more than 5 billion dollars in losses each year (2003). Accordingly, you need to process your textiles regardless of fiber labeling to ensure quality performance. Shown is a processed denim sample, the finished dimensions are 18.5" x 19.25".
The purpose the testing was to ensure the trim (bungee cord) weathered the processing well. The form was designed by the company for their typical use which appears to be gauging the quality of different types of washes that can be applied to denim. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that the weave itself was considered.
In this photo,the grain torquing is evident and once constructed, the side seams of the pant legs will twist but no mention of the fabric defect is made on the form. One could hope a torque test had been done previously but if it had been, the fabric (and this sample) wouldn't be in evidence. The best way to test for torquing is to sew the sample into a tube before it's processed. No fewer than 5 people were involved in this test sample but everybody missed this detail. Similarly, the starting dimensions of the piece (pre-processing) does not appear but the lack of that information could mean the company has a conventional size they always cut; the size being a matter of in-house standardization. I'd recommend that DEs cut a piece 20"x20" for fabric testing.
Materials Test Sample #17801
This sample measures 19.25" x 17.75". This form is a bit different as it was generated during the product development phase.
The purpose was to test whether the button and ribbon trim will withstand the rigors of stonewashing and in this case, it appears that neither will be suitable. While this isn't good news, it's better to know before one has cut 10,000 units, sewed them and then processed them. This sample doesn't appear to be torqued but this doesn't mean the piece goods pass inspection. I'd be concerned about the seam failure shown here.
Most of the time, all you have to do to test your textiles is to wash and dry them. If the final product will be labeled "dry clean only", then you need to dry clean a sample that has whatever buttons and trim you plan to use, attached to the piece. If your buttons melt into the piece goods during dry cleaning, don't you think it's better to know that before you cut/sew your product line? One can only hope so.
3 Comments:
What's the source for the $5 b loss in 2003? That's an interesting stat. Also, the photo associated with the bungee cord doesn't show it, and it is duplicated in one of the other links (i.e., I think you used the wrong photo).
Its a good idea to test color bleed as well. Both to find out whether the color of your fabric perform as expected over a number of washes, and to see how much dye is coming out into everything else in the wash.
This is especially important if you tend to mix light and darks in the same garment.
I see I put up the wrong photo. Hopefully I'll fix that soon, thanks.
Bleeding is an issue, absolutely. There's actually all kinds of things to test for and formal ways to test them (there are labs that just test textiles).
I know a horror story involving Mary Kay cosmetics way back when. Mary Kay had ordered 200 solid red blazers lined in white acetate. When those ladies worked in the hot Dallas sun, those jackets bled all over their blouses; it was a nightmare. Maybe that's why they went to pink, who knows? lol
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