Friday, September 23, 2005

How to hire a pattern grading service

This post comes in response to a posting on an internet board from a woman (who wishes to remain anonymous) who was charged outrageous fees for pattern grading. She paid $960 to have 6 pieces graded in five sizes. That's right, $960! The customary price from any professional grading service is $50 at most, so I was beyond outrage when I heard this. She was unaware of acceptable industry pricing and I publish this with the hopes of preventing someone else from being taken advantage of in a similar way.

The following material is reprinted from The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing ©1998 by Kathleen Fasanella (me). All Rights Reserved. All of the original material is included with minor amendments, having been re-formatted for easier reading on your screen. In addition, I've added a couple of reputable pattern companies you can contact if you need to hire someone and I will be adding to the list. You can order a copy of this book here or by writing me. Depending on reader feedback and demand (and hopefully donations), I will consider writing a follow-up post that deals specifically with the issues faced by designers of home-sewing patterns due to ludicrous and outrageous grading prices from certain companies. I define "ludicrous and outrageous" as grading prices that are ten to twenty times the average going rate of industry professionals.

How to Hire a Grading Service
"...Sometimes a designer thinks we'll grade their design with a B- or C+..."
When a new designer needs technical help in design creation, they rarely know the steps it takes for a design to come to life. When discussing grading with new designers, they may become very quiet and then a "I don't have a clue look" crosses their faces. Designers know a pattern needs to be developed, but rarely think about the range of sizes a pattern may need.

So what is grading? Grading is increasing and/or decreasing pattern sizes proportionate to specific instructions. Since the best client is an educated client, a designer should learn more about grading. Designers can learn about grading from books such as Professional Pattern Grading for Women's, Men's and Children's Apparel by Handford through college courses or even from pattern graders. Learning will help anyone understand the precision of grading and help designers to make educated decisions as to how the work needs to be done.

Continue reading "How to hire a pattern grading service" at Fashion-Incubator.com

Wednesday, September 07, 2005

Just stopping by...

This service is still alive. To read the daily posts to this blog, go to Fashion-incubator. I probably would've posted sooner but I moved. My new contact info is:
Kathleen Fasanella
1149 W Picacho
Las Cruces NM 88005
Tel: 505-525-1577